If you’re looking to start your year with a bang, and not the kind that leaves a crater, you could do better than Luxembourg. Tucked between the heavyweights of Europe like some neutral cousin who shows up to family dinners in a cashmere sweater and says very little, this tiny country plays it cool. But come New Year’s Eve, it still got a pulse under that gentle exterior.

Luxembourg is the the world’s only remaining grand duchy. Is that a good thing? Damned if I know. But the country is a lot bigger than Liechtenstein or Andorra, so there are a few things to explore after all.

Grund in Luxembourg Grund district in Luxembourg city.

The capital, uninspiringly called Luxembourg city, is built on a fascinating geographic location. Canyons and deep gorges divide the city into upper and lower town, which makes it beautiful but a bit tough to navigate. The fortified walls whisper a history of keeping invaders, and probably fun as well, at bay. I’m glad I brought my sturdy boots.

After the uphill ordeals, I stroll along Rue de la Reine (oh yes) and look for unnecessary rewards. And behold, something called Chocolate House cannot be a bad idea. I find some kind of chocolate stick, but before I have time to start the devouring, a lady shows up with additional marshmallows and whipped cream, with a glass of hot milk. Alrighty then.

Place Guillaume II, Luxembourg New Years Eve celebrations at Place Guillaume II.

Today in New Year’s Eve, the Place Guillaume II has become ground zero for the revelry. I make a dedicated effort to stay clear of the ice skating rink, and dodge into the ramshackle Stübli thing placed in the middle of the square. Suddenly a warm Glühwein appears in front of me.

Here, in the shadows of old stone and under a sky stitched with sparks, I raise a toast to the unknown year ahead. No resolutions. Just another story waiting to be told. To all my friends across the world, have a Happy New Year wherever you are!

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