I was curious to what I would find in Serbia. For obvious reasons, many of the surrounding countries are vary of Serbia, to say the least. When I was visiting Bosnia-Herzegovina some years ago, they all but spat every time I happened to mention the name of the country.

The Yugoslav Wars were horrible, but Serbia has seen much more conflict during the centuries. Being one of the oldest cities in Europe, Belgrade has been fought over in 115 wars and razed 44 times.

Kalemegdan Zindan Gate to Kalemegdan fortress.

The Kalemegdan fortress, holding a fatally strategic position, stands in silent vigil where the rivers Sava and Danube meet. Since the fortress looked white from the river, the city was once given the name Belgrade – meaning “white city”. According to legend, the grave of Attila lies under the fortress.

Kalemegdan with the rivers Where the rivers Sava and Danube meet.

But beneath this past of stone and sorrow, there are more layers to the city.

Strolling down the fashionable street Kneza Mihaila feels like walking through any large city in Italy or France, with designer boutiques located in beautiful buildings.

Sebilj cesma, Belgrade Resting my legs on the old water well, Sebilj cesma.

The nightlife is notorious and the infamous Splavs, party boats, are lining up along the Sava river. In cavernous halls the young and beautiful dance the night away with DJs playing loud crap music.

The times are changing, even here.


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