As the world slowly exhales and the pandemic loosens its grip, some of us are dusting off our passports, smelling jet-fuel in the morning air and remembering what it’s like to wander. One of the most interesting places I’ve visited in recent years is Cape Town. A city that grabs you by the collar with one hand, offers you a glass of South African wine in the other, and whispers its stories in between.
Few places are as unapologetically beautiful and heartbreakingly complex at the same time. This is the Mother City for more than just its age. Beautiful surroundings, vibrant food and with a deep history that is not sugar-coated.
Table Mountain looming over the city.
Table Mountain
There is no way to escape the mountain. Always there, looming like a sentinel over the city from every angle. Beware the long queue baking under a relentless sun, but do take the rotating (!) cable car to the top and wander along the edge for an unforgettable view of the Mother city below.
Just remember to bring a jacket. The infamous “Cape Doctor”, a wind from the ocean that blows away all the filth, will have you sniffing honest sea air and questioning your choice of band t-shirt.
Taking in the view from Table Mountain with Lion’s Head, City Bowl and Robben Island in the distance.
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens
On the eastern slope of Table Mountain lies Kirstenbosch. Trees, vines and elevated walkways. Just be reminded that you’re not in Kansas anymore. Even among the elevated walkways, there are signs with warning for boomslangs (very nasty venomous snakes that can be up to two meters long).
The gardens feature a great variety of plants. Rest your weary feet at the Tea Room. Some scenes from the movie Cape Town Cops featuring Forest Whitaker was shot in the gardens.
Through Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens (boomslangs not included).
Robben Island
The infamous prison island is a very important part of the nation’s history. The atrocities of the past is a sad experience, but an important one. While waiting for the ferry, step inside the contour of Mandela’s cell at the pier as a pre-taste of the real deal.
On my visit, previous prisoners guided us at the premises and told us chilling tales of their time there. Had a look at the tiny cell of Nelson Mandela, where he spent 18 years of his life confined to a tiny 2×2 meters.
Bo-Kaap
Take a walk in Bo-Kaap, a neighborhood of brightly colored houses. The area on the slopes of Signal Hill is a historical center of Cape Malay culture. Stroll into a museum or art gallery, then roam along nearby Long Street for drinks or food.
Mama Africa is a popular place to eat. There are lots of bars, such as Beer House (223 Long Street) which have an impressive amount of craft beer taps and a nice terrace. Try the local breweries Devil’s Peak and Jack Black.
Be aware that the area is infamous for seedy bars and you might want to watch out for shady characters. Keep your wits about you, and your wallet closer.
Street in Bo-Kaap.
Castle of Good Hope
There are several interesting museums where you can learn more about the history and culture of South Africa. One of them is Castle of Good Hope, built 350 years ago to defend the city, yet never used for that purpose. Does that make it a fortress or just a symbol? Roam the bastions, imagine the colonial ambitions and ask what legacy looks like in stone.
Just don’t ring the bell.
Exploring the Castle of Good Hope.
V&A Waterfront
This is a very touristy area, but sometimes the safe spots are the smartest bet in a city full of wild possibilities. Unlike most other parts of town, you can wander relatively at ease in Waterfront.
Sample mysterious cookies at V&A Food Market, say hi to the poor sharks in the Aquarium or go for a sunset cruise. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a rib-boat ride in the harbor (but hold on to the handle as if it was your final salary).
The restaurant Den Anker close to the Market is where Jennifer Connelly spoke on the phone in the ending of movie Blood Diamond (2007).
Surveying the good stuff at V&A Food Market.
Daytrips
Start the day with a hefty breakfast, such as a large bowl of local Pap (porridge of white corn maize). Then you are ready to roll out.
Cape of Good Hope is technically not the very tip of Africa (hello Cape Agulhas), but who’s counting when the view deliver dramatic clashes of the Atlantic and Indian ocean. Enjoy looking for the Flying Dutchman while getting blasted by the wind. Ocean pulls me close and whispers in my ear, to quote Trent Reznor.
Cape of Good Hope.
Simons Town is a cozy town a bit south of Cape Town. The main draw are the adorable penguins at Boulder Beach. On the way back take the scenic drive along the west side of Chapman’s Peak.
Camps Bay is a suburb where the main draw is the beautiful beach with fine white sand. Several posh restaurants line up along the beach promenade.
Off the coast at Camps Bay.
Take a walk on the beach in Bloubergstrand, another movie location from Cape Town Cops where Orlando Bloom faces off against some thugs.
The beach at Bloubergstrand.
Did someone say wine?
South Africa is famous for its wine production. Groot Constantia, the oldest vineyard in the country with their award-winning Sauvignon Blanc, is relatively close to the city.
Even further away are the renowned wine districts with charming towns. Stellenbosch is one of the most picturesque towns in the country.
Franschhoek is small but there are some gems to discover. I recommend the lunch at Bowine, where tasting glasses goes well with the meal. Don’t you dare to skip dessert, their Don Pedro is everything you ever wanted in a cup.
Temptations in Franschhoek.
No city is perfect. Cape Town certainly has its shadows. Some areas carry a reputation you ignore at your peril. Even in safe spots, keep it modest. Don’t flash your bling. Walk aware but walk curious.
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