The silent city of Mdina

Perched on a hill in the center of Malta like some ancient being, Mdina looks like the kind of place where secrets go to fester for a few more centuries. Once the island’s capital, now just a footnote with a view.

Mdina is also known as the silent city, as cars are not permitted. Once I enter the city gate and pass through the large walls, it’s a labyrinth of medieval streets and lavish churches. The only soundtrack is the shuffle of my own steps and the occasional clatter of horse hooves. Yes, actual horses, as if the place simply refused to enter the 21st century.

Roaming the narrow alleys of Mdina.

The old town is so medieval that it was used for scenes in Game of Thrones. During the first season, many scenes set in King’s Landing were shot in Mdina. Unfortunately there were issues with a subcontractor damaging protected land, so the production moved to Dubrovnik in Croatia instead. Someone at the tourist office probably went ballistic at that one.

The city clearly wants to live up to its nickname. Doors are shut tight. Windows shuttered. The locals? If they’re around, they’re good at hiding.

City gate of Mdina.

The neighboring city of Rabat is empty as well, so I might as well visit the dead. The small St Cataldus Church (Knisja San Kataldu) has an impressive set of catacombs in the cellar, but the real deal is the St Paul’s Catacombs which are surprisingly large.

Apart from banging my head on the low ceiling all the time, I enjoy exploring the small passageways in the catacombs. These tunnels were used in Roman times to bury the dead, and later St Paul is said to have stayed there for three months after being shipwrecked on the island in 60 AD.

St Paul’s Catacombs in Rabat.

Mdina isn’t for everyone, but if you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to be alone with your thoughts in a 4000-year-old fortress, this is your scene.