Roaming through Banff

Banff isn’t real. Not in the way you think. It’s too beautiful, too pristine, like a fever dream soaked in glacier water and maple syrup.

We arrive expecting mountains, trees, maybe a moose or two. But what we get is something else entirely. Nestled in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, it’s the kind of place that seems to have been Photoshopped by nature itself. The very air smells like pine needles and possibility. Even though the mountains have names such as Sulphur Mountain, it is as far away from Mordor as one could imagine.

Finding tranquility at Lake Louise.

Lake Louise is the real poster child. Yes, it looks fake, and no, your camera won’t do it justice. It’s an emerald punch to the senses, ringed by peaks that look like they’ve seen things you wouldn’t believe.

And then there’s the wildlife. Not the Disney kind, but real animals with agendas. Bears that don’t care about your granola bar stash. Here, you’re not on top of the food chain, you’re just visiting.

The amazing emerald water at Peyto Lake.

The area was first settled in 1880 as railway workers discovered hot springs. Fast forward to present day, and the area is one of the most popular destinations in Canada. This becomes apparent in the main town, where Japanese tourists wield their tripods like Excalibur and flannel-clad hikers gulp down golden beers. The town is wrapped in the aroma of overpriced coffee, damp fleece and a slight whiff of bear spray.

View towards Athabasca Glacier.

But as soon as you enter the wilderness, the town is quickly forgotten. The only way to get up to the Athabasca Glacier is by large snow coaches. The driver tells me there are only 20 of them in the world, but I still want one for my own. I set foot on the glacier and ponder that it’s about 250 meters of ice below me, almost the height of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. At the other side of the brim is the Columbia Icefield, the largest in the mountain range.

Exploring Athabasca Glacier.

Sadly the glacier is disappearing. It is currently withdrawing about five meters every year and the glacier has lost half of its volume in the last century due to global heating.

So put away that selfie stick, take a deep breath and just be present in the moment.