In Portugal, the sea has always been close. The country was once a nation of great seafarers and the city of Porto has been an important port since Roman times. Today, things are different.

The financial crisis and other economic conditions, as well as population migration, has taken a severe toll on Portugal’s second-largest city. I heard that about one of five buildings in Porto is abandoned, while many are derelict on the brink of collapsing.

Ribeira district in Porto The historical Ribeira district.

The sudden influx of tourists in recent years brought new life to the city, as the hordes brought money along with their selfie sticks and large hats. The Ribeira district along the Douro river is full with people in the evening, but just a few blocks away the streets are silent and deserted.

Ribeira district in Porto Praca da Ribeira.

I walk along the streets, making my way up the hill by winding stairs and narrow passages. On the top is the 12th century cathedral, overlooking the dense cluster of houses climbing up the hillside. It’s sad to see the state of the old buildings, but the grime adds something special to the city. There is beauty to be found, even in the decay.

Silent street in Porto Silent street in Porto.

There is a typical Portuguese word for the feeling, called saudade, tracing its origins back to Portugal’s seafaring history. It refers to a kind of melancholic yearning after something lost. Earlier I spoke to a man who claimed that the angels had become drunk (on port wine, it was inferred) and sadly left Porto to it’s own devices.

Silent street in Porto Silent street in Porto.

The city faces many challenges, but there is a lot of potential and I hope that Porto will flourish once again.

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