Dark days at Wave-Gotik-Treffen in Leipzig

Every Whitsun, just as the rest of the world cracks open beers and pretends to enjoy the sunshine, something far more interesting happens in Leipzig.

Leipzig once belonged to Bach. Now, for one glorious weekend, it belongs to the night.

Pagan market at Moritzbastei.

WGT is one of the largest sub-culture events in the world where fans of genres such as gothic, industrial, EBM and much more. It’s such a bliss to be able to wander around and explore the stages and performances scattered across the city.

Walk under the trees around Parkbühne with bands playing at the stage. See a spoken word performance by Lydia Lunch at a cinema. Navigate the crowd under the ceiling paintings of Absintherie Sixtina. Meeting familiar faces at Sleepy Lion. The whole town becomes a theatre, and everyone’s in costume.

Pagan market at Moritzbastei.

And then there’s the contrast with the Stadtfestival happening the same weekend, where joyful families with balloons brushing past latex angels, teenage tourists gawking like they’ve just wandered into a Tim Burton casting call.

At the old Moritzbastei, the only remains of the ancient fortifications from year 1554, there is a medieval pagan market in the sun. But most of us black-clad vampires ventured beneath the brick vaults into the dark tunnels.

The reunion of Nitzer Ebb inside the Agra hall featured a hyperactive Douglas McCarthy backed up by energetic Bon Harris and a vibrant Kourtney Klein on live drums. Nearby, large men dressed in chains were moved to tears by the voice of Alexander Veljanov with Deine Lakaien on stage.

New Town Hall has the tallest city hall tower in Germany.

By the time I leave, my ears are ringing, the boots are dusty and I’ve forgotten what color sunlight is.

Until next time, Leipzig. Keep it weird.