The fairytale castles of Sintra

Sintra isn’t just a pretty postcard. It’s one of those places that sneaks up on you. A phantom whisper of fables, perched in the haze above Lisbon, where colorful castles rise like dreams carved in stone.

Fancy facade of Palácio Nacional da Pena.

The most showy among them is Palácio Nacional da Pena. Up on a hill, it watches the world. It began life as a chapel in the Middle Ages, but in 1847 it shed its quiet piety and reinvented itself as a summer palace for the royal family. Think German Gothic whimsy meets Moorish flair.

A symphony of turrets and towers that clash in the most beautiful way. When the light is right it feels like you’ve walked into a child painting of a fairy castle.

Courtyard at Palácio Nacional da Pena.

Down in the town itself is Palácio Nacional de Sintra. It’s quieter, more grounded. For 400 years it was home to royalty. The long time period combined with a mix of rulers resulted in a blend of influences, including Gothic and Moorish styles.

The silhouette is dominated by something that looks like towers, but is actually the chimneys from the large 13th century kitchen.

Courtyard at Palácio Nacional de Sintra.

Then there’s Castelo dos Mouros. Built in the 8th century as protection during the Muslim period, it has been claimed by conquerors and reclaimed by time. Today only a ruin remains on a hilltop. It’s stern and exposed to wind, perched on ridges.

Castelo dos Mouros.

After all this wandering up hills, stepping through worn thresholds and climbing ramparts, I deserve something soft. I locate Piriquita on Rua das Padarias, known for their Travesseiros. I sit on a sun-warm wall outside, taking a large bite of the almond cake filled with air and warmth, sugar and nostalgia. It’s Sintra distilled into pastry.