Gdansk isn’t the kind of place that begs for attention. It doesn’t seduce like Paris or scream like Las Vegas. It stares back at you, silent and scarred, daring you to look closer.

This place has been caught in the crosshairs of history so many times it’s a wonder the bricks still stand. Actually, most of the old city was subject to severe destruction during WW2. The buildings were later rebuilt during the 1950s and 1960s, but the historical German architecture was rejected and replaced by Dutch-style buildings. The craftsmanship is astounding, but there’s something ghostly about it. A beautiful forgery born from necessity and stubbornness.

I’m strolling along the pier Dlugie pobrzeze next to the Motlawa river, admiring the Hanseatic buildings of Gdansk. Some things managed to escape the destruction, such as the Żuraw Crane, the only surviving surviving twin-tower gate in the city. It was first mentioned back in 1367, later replaced by a new structure in 1444. The wooden section burned in 1945 and there was some damage to the walls. But it was fully restored in 1969 and today it acts as a museum.

Even though most of them are reconstructions, it’s still a marvel to wander along the pier and admire the buildings. Now where is my Goldwasser?
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